AN INTRODUCTION TO GROOMING.

an article by Jo Withey

Have you ever thought how good you feel after a shower or bath, shave and your general grooming? Or maybe just a haircut does the trick for you. What about the POSITIVE moral boost you get from these routine actions? The freshness seems to have the effect of creating the ‘feel good factor’. That’s just fine!

STOP. Think for a moment about your dog. How does he/she feel when their coat is matted, dirty, smelly, shaggy, when their feet are clogged with mud collected on the excess hair between their ‘toes’. Probably, very uncomfortable. But then the dog just accepts this as his lot, part of his life and although uncomfortable is not particularly bothered – unless of course, some of this dirt and matting is affecting his health. A healthy dog will attempt to chew the mud away from his toes and lick the dirt from his coat. A dog who is unhealthy will probably become even more so.

The real point is - how do you feel regarding the smelly individual that is your pet, particularly if he lives in the house with you?

Just a thought - Is this pet of yours giving sanctuary to any ‘lodgers’ i.e. fleas? You may know that dog fleas will also bite humans, although after one bite the flea usually dies.

Surely, not a sad case of ownus neglecticus?

Have you ever contemplated a visit to your local ‘grooming parlour’ only to be put off by the high charges?

Have you ever contemplated a do-it-yourself job but this time been put off by the thought of where to start and how to go about things?

Then read on.......

Here we will attempt to show you how this can be done at home adjusting to the facilities you have available and your capabilities.

Grooming and good health go hand in hand where your dog is concerned. This is why it is so important. In addition grooming gives you and your dog a better chance to know each other which is extremely beneficial. Try to make it a routine every other day to get the grooming brush out and use it – just a few minutes each time is all that is required.

This will give you the opportunity to examine your dog’s eyes, ears, toes, pads, nails and body at close quarters. Your puppy or dog will benefit from the grooming process because you are talking to him and teaching him to perform various small tasks – sit, stand etc. In an older dog as you lift and move his paws and legs around you might notice if they are sore and he is getting arthritis.

As you progress further you will be able to undertake more and start bathing him etc. When you are bathing him, and you run your hands over his body you should notice any lumps and bumps that would otherwise have remained dormant. You will see down to the skin, particularly when you are blow-drying his coat. This is a time when you will notice any small cuts, wounds etc. When cleaning his ears you should notice any unusual discharge or smell which may warrant a veterinary inspection.

As we look at our pets when grooming them we see more than a furry friend. We take a much closer look and the examination enables us to see things that relate to the health of our dogs. There is also the chance that by early identification of a problem, whilst it is minor, this will save a hefty veterinary bill if it should go unnoticed and becomes major.

TAKING THINGS IN EASY STAGES

The amount of grooming a dog requires will depend on the nature of their coat and the life they lead. If your dog lives indoors with you, and you take the trouble to do a small, regular amount of grooming on alternate days, you will save surplus hair floating around the house and settling in the most unwanted places, chairs, carpets, clothing and in some cases, even on plates.

The average family pet will not require expensive grooming sessions at a doggy parlour. Their grooming routine and needs will be simple and, depending on the type of coat, usually well within the capabilities of the owner.

TYPES OF COAT

There are five basic types of coat - short coated, long coated, silky, non-shedding curly and wire coated. We would all probably like to own a dog that could be given a quick rub down with a duster, such as a Hungarian Vizsla or a Greyhound. This is wishful thinking, particularly if you own a long coated German Shepherd who has beautiful ‘pantaloons’ at his rear with a bushy tail in between.

Short coated dogs are the easiest and are best groomed with a soft brush and will require minimal grooming.

On the other hand long coated and/or silky coated dogs will require a thorough brushing and combing out every alternate day in order to prevent the coat from becoming matted. Brushing the coat the wrong way to remove loose hairs and dirt, combing and then brushing back the right way is the best method to use in this instance.

Dogs with non-shedding, curly coats such as the poodle will require thorough brushing with a stiff brush every other day and regular clipping to prevent the coat from becoming too long. This regular clipping is best done at a Grooming Parlour.

Wire coated dogs also need regular brushing with a stiff brush to prevent the coat from matting and the top coat should be "stripped" or clipped every three to four months. Stripping is preferable as this helps to retain the wiry texture to the coat. Again a job for a professional.

As a general rule, dogs may shed dead hairs continuously, particularly in a dry, centrally heated household. Double-coated dogs generally loose large amounts of hair twice a year. Undercoat shedding often begins on the haunches and proceeds forward until the entire coat has moulted. Grooming during shedding helps move the process along. There may be dullness to the hair before the new tufts start emerging from the coat. Full shedding may take a month or even more, particularly in the heavy-coated breeds.

WHERE TO BRUSH YOUR DOG

When you brush and comb your dog’s coat, this should be done outside in the fresh air. There are two advantages here; the hair should blow away and be gratefully collected by birds for their nest lining (five star accommodation) and secondly, your house will be freed from additional hairy deposits.

WHAT DOES YOUR DOG DO?

The first thing to consider is what does your dog do? Why is he with you? If your dog is a normal memberof the household with no specific duties apart from being a pet and walking companion, then the times and type of grooming he requires will be determined by his breed and type of coat.

If he is a working dog, i.e., farm or sheep dog, gun dog etc. he will, by the nature of his job, get very dirty on occasions. A quick hose down or a swim in the nearest river or lake can deal with most of these problems. Again the breed of dog needs to be taken into consideration. A Labrador is a comparatively easy breed to keep clean as is a Rottweiler, but a Working/Border Collie will need some trimming and brushing of his coat otherwise he will be in danger of becoming a true shaggy dog, collecting even more mud etc. in his coat. Farm/sheep/gun dogs need to have their toes and pads regularly inspected. A build up of mud between the toes can affect their working capabilities and this type of dog is more likely to sustain an injury to their pads. Watch out for grass seeds lodging themselves in the crevices of the pad. Bramble thorns can also cause substantial damage. Both can become quite painful.

If your dog is a Show Dog then the requirements change dramatically. He must be fully groomed before entering the Show Ring and this type of grooming can become quite extensive and expensive. Some dogs lead pampered lives and some true to their type, leading normal lives such as gun dogs etc. and making a ‘guest’ appearance in the Show Ring as required.

If you are a keen amateur as far as grooming is concerned, these skills can be learnt and many Cruft’s winners have been entirely groomed by their owners or handlers.

Each dog must be treated according to the work or not, that he/she does and the type of coat that they posses. Finally the crunch point is what standard are you aiming at? What are you prepared to tolerate? What are your capabilities and your facilities?

Jo Withey is both a dog owner and writer of many years’ standing.To read the rest of this interesting and informative book, which also includes detailed instructions on how to train your dog etc. go to
http://www.beyondbumbles.com/dogtraining.htm A Kennel Club Accredited Instructor has approved this book.

This article is written by Jo Withey and based upon her personal experience. It may not necessarily reflect the opinions of Burns Pet Nutrition.